My Kind of Paradise On Ilha Grande

I guess I have a thing for seedy islands.

A pirates lair, a leper colony, and a penitentiary for political prisoners — much like Koh Tao in Thailand and Isla de Coiba in Panama, Ilha Grande in Brazil has quite the illicit past. And much like those islands before it, this one also managed to steal my heart in just a few short days.

Ilha Grande BrazilPhoto by Heather Holt

Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Ilha Grande Brazil

Though the last island prison dissolved in the mid-90’s, gorgeous Ilha Grande’s sordid reputation kept developers at bay, much to the delight of travelers now lucky enough to stumble upon it. And it’s pretty convenient to stumble onto — several boat and van services offer door-to-door connections between Paraty and Rio, making Ilha Grande a natural stop on a hop along Brazil’s emerald coastline.

The first stop for visitors to the island is Vila Do Abraão, a once sleepy fishing village now bursting with pousadas, canga shops, acai stands and other tourist trappings that manage to maintain the tiny town’s ramshackle charm. Adding to the adorability factor is the lack of motorized vehicles. A garbage truck, a fire truck and a police vehicle make up the list of exceptions, and everyone else gets around on foot or by bicycle.

Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

After our rainy five days in Paraty, we could not have been any more thrilled to be greeted by the sun in Ilha Grande. Yet we quickly learned that one thing we were seriously unprepared for pretty much all through Brazil, with the exception of our first lucky week? The weather.

We spent three glorious nights on Ilha Grande, and during the day the weather was beautiful and the temperatures in the high sixties to low eighties. But with strong island winds and temperatures dropping into the fifties at night, we were seriously unprepared for anything Brazil was throwing at us past sunset — which was around 5:30pm at that time of year.

Thank goodness I had bought a pair of jeans specifically for this trip! We fell into a pattern of enthusiastically planning a night out every day, then gradually putting on every layer we had in our bags as the temperature dropped until we were huddled in our beds wrapped in our comforters cursing ourselves for having acclimated so seamlessly to the tropical climates of our adopted homes. The last thing I expected to be on this Brazilian holiday was cold — though on the upside, I’ve lived happily through a Thai heat wave with no air conditioning, so there’s that!

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

We’d waffled on where to stay in Ilha Grande, entertaining lush pousadas, budget hostels and even a charming houseboat on Airbnb. In the end, we settled on the Che Legarto Paraty, a sister property to the hostel we’d tried in Paraty.

We’d been won over by the waterfront location, though I can’t say I’m itching to return. Our dorms were painfully pricey at $25 per night per person (private rooms are no longer offered), the included breakfast was pitiful, the location was a bit out of town and there wasn’t much in the way of hostel camaraderie during our stay. We were tickled by the local luggage service, however, which consisted of a bicep-flexer tossing our bags into a custom push cart and leading the way to our hostel for $4 each.

Che Legarto Ilha Grande

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

How to fill one’s days on such a charming island? Options are a-plenty. We’d originally enthusiastically planned to go diving though were warned off by the local dive shop due to the storm that had plagued us in Paraty and churned the visibility up to nothing.

Other tours for snorkeling, island hopping, and waterfall rappelling were appealing, however in the end we decided to give our budget a rest and entertain ourselves on the cheap. We spent the majority of our time on Ilha Grande tackling three of the island’s sixteen signposted hiking trails — leading to just a few of its hundred and two beaches! This was such a special experience that I have a whole post coming up dedicated to our hiking adventures. Stay tuned!

Ilha Grande Brazil

Hiking on Ilha Grande

And, needless to say, with a professional shutterbug as my co-pilot (she took both the beautiful photos above!), photography walks were a fun part of almost every day. I love how creatively challenged I can be by my travels with Heather, and comparing the different ways we see the world through our lenses.

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande BrazilPhoto by Heather Holt

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande BrazilPhoto by Heather Holt

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande BrazilPhoto by Heather Holt

Also kind of needless to say when it comes to the two of us, eating and drinking were also a main form of entertainment.

While Ilha Grande doesn’t have close to the dining scene that Paraty boasted, we did find a few favorites. Fornilha Pizzaria was the perfect comfort food for our first chilly night, Kebab Lounge was a healthy dinner option, and Cafe do Mar was our pick for chic beachside eats in the sun — don’t forget to look for their special evening BBQ a few night a week, too! We both gave a thumbs up to the vegetarian-friendly self-serve buffet at Biergarten, and the flavored mojitos and fresh empenadas at Coruja were definitely the hippest thing happening in town. And let’s just say we made a thorough sampling of the local acai bowl offerings, and we weren’t let down once.

Ilha Grande Brazil

Vila do Abraão Ilha Grande Brazil

On our final morning, we decided to go wild and for over a few riels for fun. While rentals for bikes, surfboards and kayaks were tempting, we saved our mild splurge for a mutual favorite: stand up paddle boarding.

Stand Up Paddleboarding on Ilha Grande Brazil

Stand Up Paddleboarding on Ilha Grande Brazil

Stand Up Paddleboarding on Ilha Grande Brazil

For 40BR each (about $11), we had an hour to play in the bay. We were heading onward to Rio de Janiero that afternoon, and while it was a city I’d looked forward to visiting for much of my life, I couldn’t help but feel wistful about leaving. The three nights we’d originally budgeted due to rumors of horrific wifi (a serious concern for two online business owners) suddenly seemed far too short. We’d actually tried to extend our trip by another day, but found our transfer was non-refundable and couldn’t be budged.

We were both overwhelmed with happiness as we paddled around and looked back on the beautiful island we were saying goodbye to all too soon. How rare to find such a gem of nature, so unsullied by overdevelopment. Ilha Grande is truly a special place.

Stand Up Paddleboarding on Ilha Grande Brazil

Stand Up Paddleboarding on Ilha Grande Brazil

Stand Up Paddleboarding on Ilha Grande Brazil

Ilha Grande left a big impression on my heart. Here’s hoping I’ll be back someday!

Nitrox Now! A Review of the PADI Enriched Air Diver Course

Fellow scuba enthusiasts, do you want your dives to be safer, to stay down longer, and to have more energy for celebratory drinks after rinsing out your gear? I’ll take that as a duh — which is why it’s so crazy it took me so many years to get my nitrox certification.

Earlier in 2016, before leaving Thailand for the summer, I realized I’d hit a bit of a diving rut. My solution? I signed up for three different continuing education courses at three different dive schools on Koh Tao to shake myself out of it! And I chose topics that challenged me. After tackling the Self Reliant Diver certification at Master Divers — which you can read about here — I moved onto the Enriched Air Diver certification course at Ban’s, the largest dive school in the world by volume of divers certified.

Ban's Koh Tao Course Review

Ban's Koh Tao Course Review

The Enriched Air Diver course, also often referred to as “nitrox,” is PADI’s most popular speciality — and it’s easy to see why. (I’ll use the two terms interchangeably throughout this post.) This simple one-day course can be done and dusted in a matter of hours, and in fact as a “dry course,” it can technically be completely without stepping a single fin underwater — though, ahem, why would you want to miss the fun part?!

I chose to take this certification quite seriously. As a PADI Divemaster, I have always felt self-conscious about the gaps in my understanding of dive theory, and I figured this course would be the perfect opportunity to fill them out. And so I turned to my longtime friend and Senior Instructor at Ban’s, Chris Pearson.

As the local coordinator at Hyperbaric Services Thailand, a key member of Koh Tao Rescue, and a PADI Staff Instructor, he was almost over-qualified to certify little ‘ol me in a simple Enriched Air course. I mean, just look at this list of qualification!

• PADI Staff Instructor
• Diver Medical Technician (IMCA)
• Emergency First Responder Instructor Trainer
• C.E.E.R – (Chalenging Environments Emergency Responder) Instructor
• M.I.R.A – (Medicine In Remote Areas) Instructor
• DMR Level IV – (Diver Medical Responder) Instructor
• Hyperbaric Chamber Tender & Operator (SSS Recompression Chamber Network)

Phew! Thankfully, Chris was more than willing to take me on as a student. I knew he’d know exactly how to get the information through to me — Diet Coke lecture analogies, coconut quiz-passing bribes and all.

Enriched Air Nitrox PADI Course

Enriched Air Nitrox PADI Course

So, let’s start with the basics. What is enriched air? It all comes down to what’s in the tank. A standard scuba tank is filled with compressed air identical to what we breathe on land, which is 79% nitrogen and 21% oxygen. Nitrox tanks on the other hand have an oxygen content of 22-40%, with 32% and 36% being the standard mixes.

Don’t worry, this blog post does not require a calculator — I just wanted to impress you all with the use of fancy fractions. (Did it work? Discuss amongst yourselves.) Yet the real benefits of diving nitrox go beyond wowing your friends with math and the fashion potential of coordinating with those sassy green and yellow tanks.

Less nitrogen is, for the most part, a good thing. Nitrogen is enemy numero uno when it comes to decompression sickness, long breaks between dives, post-diving naps and something called “no decompression limits,” which calculate how long you can stay at certain depths. Diving enriched air allows you to dive longer (due to less nitrogen exposure), safer (you can dive an air profile on a nitrox tank for super conservative dives), with shorter surface intervals (as there’s less nitrogen to off-gas) and with less fatigue (yup, you guessed it, another byproduct of less nitrogen exposure).

So what keeps the entire dive community from ditching standard air and breathing nothing but nitrox? Good question. The answer, for most divers, is simply price. It’s more expensive! Other factors include limited availability, the hassle of checking the blend in your tank for each dive, and stricter depth limits due to the increased risk of oxygen toxicity (there’s always a trade-off, eh?).

Ban's Dive School Koh Tao Thailand

Ban's Dive School Koh Tao Thailand

The course itself is straightforward. In fact, it is the only PADI dive course ever to be streamlined rather than expanded. Why? Because, dive computers! In some ways, these magic little wrist machines have made diving nitrox as simple as the touch of a button.

But yet you still need to understand the concepts behind the calculations, and that’s where the certification comes in. Things like partial pressure and oxygen toxicity are, in my opinion, quite complicated, and I didn’t want to just pass the test and move on. I really wanted to understand. And so I didn’t move past a single sentence in the course manual until I felt confident I could explain it to a child if necessary. Bottom line? Praise Chris for his patience.

The course kicked off with an introductory video by PADI followed by a custom lecture from Chris and many interruptions by me to ask questions. Next, I sat down for some quality time with my manual, completing a simple knowledge reviews at the end of each chapter to seal in new concepts. Finally came the exam, which I aced with the humble pride that some accept PHD’s with.

HTMS Sattukut Koh Tao

HTMS Sattukut Koh Tao

And then we put it into practice. After learning to set my dive computer for various nitrox blends, I mastered how to check tanks with an analyzer tool and record my findings, and finally how to read the markings on a nitrox tank. One thing I didn’t realize before taking this course is you MUST check your own gas blend each and every single dive so you can plan accordingly. While oxygen poisoning is incredibly rare, it is serious, and thus divers have to be vigilant about checking their air blend, making a dive plan and staying within their computer’s dive limits.

Ideally, though this step is technically optional, you’ll conclude your course with a dive or two on nitrox so you can see what all the fuss is about. Which is exactly what Chris and I did, to the HTMS Sattakut, one of my old favorite dive sites on Koh Tao.

HTMS Sattukut Koh Tao

HTMS Sattukut Koh Tao

HTMS Sattukut Koh Tao

Enriched Air Nitrox PADI Course

While it was interesting to note the different readings on my dive computer and to see the different markings on my snazzy new tank, the contents were indiscernible otherwise from standard compressed air — it doesn’t taste, feel, or smell any differently.

Thanks to our longer dive time and shorter surface intervals, we were the last ones back on the boat from the first dive and the first ones back in the water for the second, at good ‘ol White Rock dive site.

Ban's Koh Tao Course Review

Ban's Koh Tao Course Review

Ban's Koh Tao Course Review

Enriched Air Nitrox PADI Course

Ban's Koh Tao Course Review

Ban's Koh Tao Course Review

And then I was certified, sealed with a high-five at the surface! As we hopped off the dive boat, I felt ready to take on the world — a far cry from my normal post-dive sluggishness.

So what divers should consider getting their Enriched Air certification? Anyone who wants to dive longer and feel sprightlier! Those doing multiple dives over multiple days — on liveaboards, at dive resorts, etc. — are the primary targets. Those looking to brush up on certain dive concepts (like me!) will also find it a great catch-all little course to really check your comprehension of dive theory, with the right instructor. And finally, those pursuing other specialities like Intro to Tech, Photography, Sidemount, and other courses that involve staying underwater for longer will find nitrox to be a natural step in their continuing education.

If you too are considering this course, you’ll walk away with a comprehensive understanding of what nitrox is, when and when not to dive it, what the risks are, and how to plan for enriched air dives.

Ban's Koh Tao Course Review

Enriched Air Nitrox PADI Course

I feel strongly that finding the right PADI dive shop and instructor are key when it comes to this course. I’ve heard it described by so many in the diving industry as “an easy sign off” and “a throwaway course” and while I don’t want anyone reading this to be discouraged or intimidated from signing up, I also don’t like to see it treated dismissively. So look for the right fit.

Only a handful of shops on Koh Tao compress their own enriched air. I recommend taking the course at a school that does, and asking your instructor if they actually use it. Ban’s is one of those schools, and Chris is one of those instructors. Clearly, I was thrilled with my experience and can’t recommend Chris more highly. If you’re looking to take this or any other recreational diving or dive medic training course on Koh Tao, reach out to him!

Enriched Air Nitrox PADI Course

Enriched Air Nitrox PADI Course

Enriched Air Nitrox PADI Course

Personally, I’ll be diving nitrox whenever it’s available and affordable to me from here forward. It just feels good!

And as someone who used to joke that I had to stop watching Bill Nye the Science Guy because all the theory was a bit over my head, I was proud to really wrap my mind around this course. If these things come easy to you, kudos! If not, don’t be discouraged. Science has never come easy to me, and for too long I let that mental block dictate what I thought I could and couldn’t achieve with diving. These days I know that with the right instructor, the right attitude, and a bribe of one fresh coconut for passing my final exams, there’s little in diving I can’t do.

Do you dive nitrox? Let’s get gassy in the comments!

3-devide-lines

This post is brought to you by PADI as part of the PADI AmbassaDiver initiative. Read my latest ramblings on the PADI blog!

A Brazilian Pearl: Where to Eat, Stay and Play in Paraty

I already confessed that my time in Paraty was a washout. But while five days of rain followed by three hours of sun was frustrating, it did leave us plenty of quality time to eat ourselves silly, lounge about in our accommodation, and look for a few creative activities that didn’t require a dose of Vitamin D.

Heading to this beautiful Brazilian beach town? Regardless of what the weather report predicts, I hope you’ll find my mini-guide useful!

Paraty Travel Guide

Where to Stay

As a popular stop on both the Brazilian backpacker trail and as a getaway for Rio and São Paulo’s well-heeled crowd, Paraty has ample accommodation on all ends of the spectrum. We were able to experience digs on both ends!

Pousada Do Sandi

We were in for a treat arriving at Pousada do Sandi. Ranked as one of the top three hotels in Paraty on Tripadvisor, this colonial gem was just the welcome we needed after a hectic festival followed by running around Brazil’s biggest city.

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Located right in the heart of Paraty’s colonial center, Pousada do Sandi fits seamlessly into the cobblestone streets that lead up to it. As one of the area’s larger pousadas, Pousada do Sandi boasts large gardens as well as a spacious bar and restaurant.

As dreary as it was outside, it was equally bright and cheery inside these walls.

Paraty Pousada do SandiPhoto by Heather Holt

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Rooms are spread on two floors around the garden courtyard. As this is a historic building there are no elevators, so those with an overpacking addiction or mobility issues should request a ground floor room; those who want a bit more privacy and to keep their bedroom windows open should request the second floor.

My favorite detail of the rooms? The brightly colored mosaic bathroom.

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

A beautiful breakfast was included every morning, and one night when a torrential downpour made us dread leaving the hotel, we splurged on room service. Who wouldn’t want to spend as much time as possible in this color explosion?

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Paraty Pousada do Sandi

Che Legarto Paraty

Later, once we were pampered silly, we headed over to Che Legarto Paraty to get a dose of backpacker camaraderie. Che Legarto is a popular South American hostel chain that I’d heard much about despite never staying at before, and I was excited to check one out. With several hostel options around town they do have some stiff competition, though after scouring reviews Che Legarto seemed the liveliest of the bunch.

Che Legarto Paraty Hostel

Che Legarto Paraty Hostel

Che Legarto Paraty Hostel

Located just on the outskirts of the historic center, Che Legarto Paraty has a nice array of public spaces, from a small pool to garden hammock lounges to indoor movie rooms. They even have resident marmosets that pop in from time to time!

Our private room was basic but proficient, and a continental breakfast was included. Dinner specials are offered as well as hostel-run tours.

Che Legarto Paraty Hostel

Che Legarto Paraty HostelPhoto by Heather Holt

Before arriving in Brazil, I’d been warned by a few friends and fellow bloggers that Brazilian hostels were unlike those in the rest of the continent, and could be a tricky place to meet people if you don’t speak Portuguese. Having experienced hostel culture in other South American countries, I found this hard to accept prior to arrival.

Alas, I found it to be true. Brazil is a massive country that can be tricky for foreigners to visit due to cost and visa restrictions, and so hostels are often filled by Brazilians, who love to travel within their own country. While this is wonderful news for those who speak the language and are keen to meet locals (who wouldn’t be?!), it left these language-challenged gringas feeling a bit left out. Speaking Spanish does help, as many non-domestic travelers hail from neighboring Spanish-speaking countries.

Che Legarto Paraty Hostel

Che Legarto Paraty Hostel

What To Do

Paraty’s most popular activities take advantage of its natural beauty. Schooner cruises, stand up paddling, beach hopping, whitewater rafting, hiking and ocean kayaking were all on our to-do list that were quickly scratched off due to weather woes.

So we had to get creative!

Photography

Well, when a travel blogger and a professional photographer travel together you better believe there are going to be plenty of photo walks involved. Paraty is beautifully preserved and bursting with color. Anyone who is photographically inclined should set aside at least a few hours to go out and capture the details of this beautiful city. I found myself wishing I had a sketchbook, too!

Paraty Photography
Photo by Heather Holt

Paraty Photography

Paraty Photography

Go to The Spa

As two certified spa junkies, Heather and I flipped when we found Shambala Spa. We decided to splurge on a full day of indulgence at this beautiful retreat overlooking Jabaquara Bay.

We started our day with a private hatha yoga session in a gazebo in the Balinese garden. It was a peaceful practice, and put us perfectly in a relaxation mood.

Shambhala Spa Paraty

Next, we made our way to the spa where we learned the unfortunate news that the previous night’s rain had caused a power and water cut through the entire village. Thus, we’d have to skip the body scrubs and special garden soaks we’d booked — if you see the photos of the gorgeous outdoor soaking tubs on their website you’ll understand how gutted we were. I know, I know — woe is us, right?!

Luckily, the massage we were about to enjoy would ease away all those troubles.

Shambhala Spa Paraty

Finally, we capped off our day with lunch at the Shambala Lounge, a ten minute drive outside town. Unfortunately, the lounge closed not long after our visit — a shame as it was one of the best meals we had our entire trip! But stay tuned as I can only imagine the owners have something new up their sleeves.

Shambhala Lounge Paraty

Shambhala Lounge Paraty

While I can’t recommend the Shambala Spa or yoga more highly, I wish we’d also had time to check out Casa do Dharma, which offers regular yoga classes, meditations, massages, origami workshops and more.

Shambhala Lounge Paraty

Shambhala Lounge Paraty

Horseback Ride

One one cloudy day with respite from the rain, Heather and I head out to the countryside for some horseback riding. While I made a total rookie travel mistake and booked a different tour from the one Heather and I had discussed (we thought we were headed to a waterfall and a cachaça farm from the saddle — nope!) it was still nonetheless nice to get out and see some of the scenery outside the city.

Stay tuned for a full review of this tour soon.

Horseback Riding Paraty

Take a Cooking Class

I saved the best for last — one of our absolute favorite memories of Paraty was our evening at the Academy of Cooking at Other Pleasures. And yes, the night was every bit as fabulous as that name hinted at. Part cooking class, part dinner party with the most fabulous eccentric aunt and uncle you always wished you had, it was exactly the kind of quirky travel experience you find yourself swooning over years later.

Paraty Cooking Class School

Paraty Cooking Class School

Paraty Cooking Class School

Along with two other guests, Brazilian-American couple Yara and Richard welcomed us warmly into their beautiful home with caipirinhas and conversation. We lapped up their story of falling in love with Paraty and making a home there in the historic center, enjoying all the highs and lows of life in what is in many ways still a small village. I was also keenly interested in this business they had created, which Richard described as a natural choice for them as opposed to retirement. “What would we do, sit around and watch TV in the evenings? Instead we host travelers from around the world,” he said with pride.

Between Yara’s impressive background in cooking and Richard’s penchant for art and photography, their home would have been equally appropriate in an issue of Architectural Digest or Bon Appétit. They were without question a hospitality powerhouse.

Paraty Cooking Class School

Eventually, we made our way into the kitchen, where Yara demonstrated how to make some of the Brazilian dishes that she perfected in her decades as a culinary professor, cookbook author, and TV host. We were each given small tasks which we embraced with gusto, excited to contribute to our home-cooked meal.

Yara was accommodating of both my non-fish eating and Heather’s vegetarianism, which we were extra appreciate of considering the intimate setting. When we all sat down to eat we felt like old friends, and when we finally said goodbye around mid-night I knew it was an evening I wouldn’t forget soon. While Heather and I walked home we agreed we couldn’t imagine a more beautiful “retirement.”

Don’t come to Paraty without setting aside a night to meet Richard and Yara.

Paraty Cooking Class School

Paraty Cooking Class School

Where To Eat

Paraty had one of the most impressive restaurant scenes I found in Brazil outside São Paulo. While we mostly treated ourselves to the higher-end offerings, cheaper buffets and local joints were also smattered around town.

Paraty Restaurants

Banana Da Terra

Our big dining splurge of our five days was dinner at Banana Da Terra, which lived up to its impeccable reputation. We laughed until we cried at our Google Translate app’s translation of the wine list, and then practically cheered as each course we’d ordered was artfully presented. After a beautiful meal, we waddled home. If you can afford it, don’t miss it!

Banana Da Terra Paraty Restaurants

Punto Divino

Heather and I make it a mission to enjoy the best pizza every city has to offer (everyone has their passions) and we found Paraty’s at Punto Divino. Don’t miss the outdoor seating if you’re lucky enough to have nice weather!

Thai Brasil

Long time readers know I can’t pass up Thai food no matter how recently I spent six months in Thailand! Heather and I were both so pumped to try Thai Brasil we ran their on our first night, and my only regret is we didn’t make it back the rest of the trip. The bright decor, fun presentation and mouth-watering menu made this my favorite pick of Paraty.

Don’t confuse it with similarly-named Thai Paraty, which we also tried one evening and were less than impressed with.

Thai Brasil Paraty Restaurants

Have you been to Paraty? Tell me what I missed in the comments!

Stop And Smell The Rosé: Winding Down Thailand Wine Weekend at Alcidini

Two down, one to go — our weekend of hopping Thailand’s wineries was so far a smashing success. After spending our first day at Khao Yai’s first vineyard and Thailand’s one and only winery helmed by a women, we were excited to see what our third and final stop of the weekend would have in store.

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

After a home-cooked group breakfast at our Airbnb, we hit the road for Alcidini Winery, a small, family-run and organic vineyard about an hour east of PB Valley and GranMonte. We ooh-ed and ahh-ed as we pulled up the winding road to Alcidini, soaking up the idyllic setting.

Piling out of the car, we were greeted by a flock of the family’s freshly-bathed and obscenely-adorable goats, who were hanging out next to a fence while they air-dried.

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Unlike the other wineries we visited, there was no tour of the forty acre vineyards. However, we were free to poke around the immaculate vines on our own. Wine grapes take up about half the planting area, with table grapes and another favorite — avocados! — taking up the rest.

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Inside, we were given a private tasting and talk by the Alcidini family’s prodigal son, Tony, who was also the family winemaker. The entire facility was run by Tony and his parents, along with ten farmers who assist with the harvest. Plus, the goats — turns out they don’t just sit around and look cute, they actively help clear the vineyards of weeds!

While Alcidini proudly uses no pesticides and no chemicals, Tony explained that they need a 2km buffer around any plantings in order to be “certified organic,” and with such a small plot they can’t afford to give up that much acreage. Still, staying dedicated to sustainable farming and organic methods is tantamount at Alcidini.

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Without a tour attached to the tasting it was our briefest stop, however it was also perhaps our most informative.

Tony studied in San Francisco (there’s a mini Golden Gate bridge on the property!) and spoke impeccable English, and thus was able to teach us much about the wines we were tasting as well as the unique struggles and joys of running a vineyard in Thailand.

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

We loved the offerings at Alcidini and all walked away with some treats — including not just wine but also special organic spiced raisins made by Ton’s mom. After, rather than hop right back in the van, we took some time to explore the gorgeous grounds! With a bit of wine in us, we were happy to traipse around and entertain ourselves for a bit.

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

After one more goodbye kiss to our new favorite goats, we were back on the road.

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

Alcidini Winery Khao Yai Thailand

We had just one more stop ahead of us. On my previous trip through the Khao Yai region to visit Khao Yai National Park, I’d spotted something that left me rubbing my eyes and wondering if I was seeing things: a castle.

Yes, a castle. Khao Yai is one of the most popular domestic tourist destinations in the country, and the region is chock full of faux-European homes, shopping centers, restaurants, and even a mini Leaning Tower of Pisa. It’s where high society Bangkokians go for a weekend in Italy without having to get on a plane — and where Koh Tao expats go to guzzle wine and wear fancy clothes.

Midwinter Green Khao Yai Thailand

Midwinter Green Khao Yai Thailand

Midwinter Green Khao Yai Thailand

Midwinter Green was the perfect final stop for our lovely weekend away. Though we were disappointed that the extensive wine selection only included one or two options from Khao Yai (where’s the local pride, Midwinter Green?!), we couldn’t have asked for a greater menu, more beautiful vista, or more swoon-worthy setting with which to toast to our weekend.

As usual with our crew, things got more than a little silly.

Midwinter Green Khao Yai Thailand

Midwinter Green Khao Yai Thailand

Midwinter Green Khao Yai Thailand

Midwinter Green Khao Yai Thailand

Midwinter Green Khao Yai Thailand

And with that, we were back to the big city! What had originally started as a short and sweet low-key wine weekend morphed into something a bit more, and so stay tuned for coverage of our continued adventures in Bangkok and beyond. But alas, the first chapter was over.

While it may have been brief, these two days made up one of my favorite trips I’ve ever taken in Thailand. Part of it was the amazing crew we had assembled, with whom I could have fun in a parking lot, but much of it was the thrill of planning a truly offbeat trip in such a well-trodden country.

In fact, this trip really sparked an obsession for me to visit all of Thailand’s wineries, and I’d tick off another in Hua Hin not long after! Coming up, I have plans to check off one or two more. Wondering how you too can visit these fabulous places? Stay tuned for my upcoming guide on hiring a driver, finding accommodation, and arranging tours in Thailand’s burgeoning wine country.

Midwinter Green Khao Yai Thailand

I’ll wrap this post with a thank you to my wonderful Koh Tao friends who make every day an adventure, and who generously trust me with their precious vacation time and funds. I can’t wait to see where life takes us next!

But I do hope wherever it may be… there will be wine.

Cheers for reading! Which of the Khao Yai wineries would you most want to visit? 

When It Rains, It Pours in Paraty

I fell unexpectedly in love with Brazil’s biggest city, but it wasn’t long before I felt the ocean calling me home.

Leaving São Paulo, we made our way towards the sea, where we’d planned to drip along the coast all the way to and beyond Rio de Janiero. Tucked along this so-called Emerald Coast is a turquoise jewel — the colonial town of Paraty. As we planned the trip, it was one of the stops I was most looking forward to. In fact, aside from Rio, it was where we’d scheduled to spend the most time.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty is widely hailed as one of Brazil’s most charm-soaked towns. With an exquisitely preserved colonial center, a mountainous jungle backdrop and an endless array of tropical beaches and islands in the bay, it’s almost painfully picturesque. The lack of cars in the historic center makes it pleasant to stroll aimlessly, and easy to imagine you’ve traveled in time.

The town is a magnet for creatives and a popular getaway for both wealthy Brazilians from both Rio and São Paulo and in-the-know travelers, primarily from Europe. As two bumbling American gringas, we certainly broke the mold.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog PostPhoto by Heather Holt

While some travelers breeze by in a day or so to soak up the white stucco, others — like us — linger. For those that do, there are a dizzying array of ways to entertain yourself. Schooner cruises of the archipelago’s islands are the most popular choice, though a SUP tour, a beach-hopping hiking trip, a cooking class, yoga and spa treatments, horseback riding to cachaca farms and waterfalls, whitewater rafting and ocean kayaking were also on our wish list.

When the sun shines, it would be shameful to find yourself bored in Paraty.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

So how did this dreamy place come to exist in reality?

Paraty was already inhibited by the indigenous Guaianás when the Portuguese first rolled up in the 1500’s. Within a hundred years it was a popular stopover on the gold rush route between the mines and Rio de Janiero, though a new route later saw the city decline from greatness. Later, the coffee boom gave the city a boost, and since a new coastal road from Rio was extended to the city in 1960 tourism has been the name of the local economy game.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty is a photographer’s playground. Heather and I went crazy with our cameras, roaming the cobblestone streets looking for the next hit of colonial charm to capture through our lenses. Our options were truly endless.

For the first time in a long time, I longed for a sketchpad and watercolors, for some of the scenes were just begging to be painted. Paraty might just be the most scenic hamlet I’ve come across since my travels to Luang Prabang in 2012.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog PostPhoto by Heather Holt

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog PostPhoto by Heather Holt

Pretty amazing, right? Well, here’s the truth. Almost every single photo above was taken in our last three hours of five days in Paraty. The rest of the time, it rained. Rained, poured, or simply threatened to with dark, ominous skies.

The scene below? It looked like that for our last morning, as we frantically scrambled around town trying to get in every last blue sky click we could. The rest of the time, it looked like this.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

As a photographer, I embrace the challenge of trying to find the beauty in every day and destination, regardless of the weather conditions. Yet as a storyteller, I struggle sometimes to paint an accurate picture of how bleak it is to spend day after day fruitlessly checking the forecast, heavy-heartedly canceling your plans one by one, and staring frustratedly at dark angry skies when the photos I take paint a sunnier picture.

Yes, we tried to make the best of things. But as these behind-the-scenes iPhone snaps reveal, we spent much of our trip in makeshift garbage bag rain coats, laughing so we didn’t cry, or taking advantage of breaks in the downpour to jog off our frustration along stormy cliffs.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

While Paraty is a beautiful city regardless of what the weather is doing, it is a teeny tiny one and cancelled boat trips and flooded beaches left us wondering how to fill our days. We did find a few gems, which I’ll cover in an upcoming guide on where to stay, eat and play in Paraty.

But we did find ourselves wondering if we’d done ourselves a disservice by pre-booking our accommodation and transportation so that we had little room to be flexible. We were reassured however by the fact that we would have been more or less stuck, regardless: the storm blowing through the area was vast and covered any other destinations we could have easily reached by bus, and the steep prices of last-minute domestic plane tickets make spontaneous state-hopping hard to swing, anyway.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

So after sunny skies and deliciously warm temperatures in Itú and in São Paulo, it seemed our good weather luck had run out. Even Paraty’s animals seemed a little glum, after a few days.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog PostPhoto by Heather Holt

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog PostPhoto by Heather Holt

Sometimes when it rains, it pours. Weather is the one thing that simply can’t be predicted when planning a trip. We were visiting at the tail end of the rainy season but even locals agreed that arriving in the midst storm of this length and determination was a stroke of bad luck, on our part. Looking at a historic weather chart for the month we visited, it’s almost comical how the temperatures stayed steady throughout the month, our five day visit aside — they plummeted the day we arrived and soared again the day we left, while precipitation levels did the opposite.

You can’t win ’em all.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

I feel a little sad when I think back on my time in Paraty, only because I think back to how frustrated we felt and regret all the activities we missed out on. I felt a bit trapped by our rigid itinerary, and panicked wondering if we’d be stuck shivering and wet for the rest of our trip. But in spite of that, I have many fond memories from Paraty as well — which I’ll share in upcoming posts.

In the end, there are worse places to be stuck in the rain.

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Paraty Brazil Travel Blog Post

Stay tuned for where to stay, what to do and where to eat in Paraty!

You Had Me At Merlot: Continuing Thailand Wine Weekend at PB Valley Vineyards

After a fabulous Thai wine weekend kick off at GranMonte Vineyards, we were on to our second stop of the day, PB Valley. Appropriately, PB Valley — formerly known as Khao Yai Winery — was the second vineyard in the country to attempt growing wine grapes. Yet as the first winery to open in the now bustling Khao Yai wine region — yup, in Southeast Asia just four wineries makes a wine trail! — PB Valley has earned its self-appointed moniker as the “birthplace of the Khao Yai wine region.”

PB Valley Winery Thailand

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

When I’d written to PB Valley enquiring about the capacity for groups and the availability of tours in English, I received an invitation for a private tour from Heribert Gaksch, the German-born Head of Marketing and Business Development himself.

Heribert greeted us at the entrance with another open-air tram, and promised us a very special behind-the-scenes experience ahead.

PB Valley Winery Thailand

PB Valley Winery Thailand

PB Valley Winery Thailand

As we wound through the seemingly endless fields, it became clear that GranMonte paled in size to PB Valley. With nearly 800 acres, almost 200 of which are planted with grapes, PB Valley easily has the largest vineyard in Khao Yai. Aside from grapes they also grow other produce, much of which finds its way into the fresh meals served in the onsite restaurant.

In its exploratory years, PB Khao Yai Winery planted over fifty different species of grapes until they found their vintage. Today, they plant Syryah, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Dornfelder, Chenin Blanc and Colombard — though I must admit, they all looked purple and green to me!

PB Valley Winery Thailand

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

In a remote corner of on of the lush vineyards, we came to a stop. The original plan, Heribert explained, had been for us to meet some of the harvest team who had been working the field tirelessly throughout the season. However, sadly, due to the traffic we’d hit leaving Bangkok we were running behind, and they had just left the fields moments before. As punishment for our lateness, Heribert joked, now we were being put to work.

And he handed out baskets and shears and let us loose.

PB Valley Winery Thailand

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

PB Valley Winery Thailand

What a blast we had! Later, as we all recounted our highs and lows of the weekend, this moment was listed as a near-universal favorite.

While I doubt we’ll be called back for an interview anytime soon — our rate of grapes per minute was tragically low due to the number of times we needed to stop for selfies — it was an unbelievable experience to get out there, get our hands around some grapes and really see and feel the vines up close and personal.

PB Valley Winery Thailand

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

In between giggles, we learned how PB Valley had come to be. The history of PB Valley wine starts with a different beverage entirely — beer. In 1989, Dr. Piya Bhirombhakdi, former president of Singha Beer (a brand that will be familiar to anyone who has traveled Thailand!) and a passionate entrepreneur, became intrigued by winemaking and established Khao Yai Winery. They made their first planting in 1992, just barely beat to the punch by Chateau de Loei Vineyards in the north, who made their first planting in 1991. After several years experimenting with grapes, the winery opened in 1997, just in time for the first harvest a year later.

Later, as other wineries began to establish themselves in the Khao Yai Region, the company decided to change their name to PB Valley, after founder’s initials, in order to avoid confusion. The logo, a hornbill perched atop a cluster of grapes, is a nod to the vineyards’ location on the cusp of Khao Yai National Park.

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

PB Valley Winery Thailand

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

Having these precious friends together in one place, tipsy on wine and life and vacation — this is why I’d planned this very trip.

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

PB Valley Winery Thailand

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

Once Heribert managed to wrestle the shears back from us and wrangle us back onto the bus, we were off to the winery and education center.

Helmed by two Thai winemakers trained in Germany and New Zealand and with a capacity of a million bottles per year, PB Valley competes for the largest winery in Thailand — it was certainly the largest-scale and most impressive production area we personally saw.

No surprises from this former crafter — my favorite aspect was the labeling machine.

PB Valley Winery Thailand

PB Valley Winery Thailand

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Finally, on to the tasting. As we tasted PB Khao Yai Reserve Chenin Blanc, PB Khao Yai Rose, and PB Khao Yai Reserve Shiraz, we learned of the many impressive tables PB Valley wines have made it to, from Thai State dinners to the first class menus of Thai Airways flights.

PB Valley Winery Thailand

Thailand Khao Yai Wine Trip

Like GranMonte, PB Valley also has a gift shop with local sundries and onsite dining at the highly-rated The Great Hornbill Grill. Onsite accommodation is currently under renovation and should re-open soon.

Seventy-five minute tours are run five times per day and cost 300 baht per adult and 250 baht for children ages 4-12. Cooking classes and live music are occasionally featured — check the website for more details on tour times and special events.

When we reluctantly peeled ourselves away from PB Valley, it was only because we were excited to reach our accommodation for the night to rest up and drink up for round two the next day! I’d scoured the internet for lodging options before finally settling on a gargantuan Airbnb in the countryside (get $35 off Airbnb!) where we all could sleep under one roof. I’ll have more accommodation details in my upcoming Khao Yai region guide, but I was so thrilled with our choice — we had an amazing home cooked family dinner, tucked into the wine we’d acquired throughout the day, and played a rousing game of Cards Against Humanity. What more could a girl ask for?

Khao Yai Airbnb

Khao Yai Airbnb

Khao Yai Airbnb

Khao Yai Airbnb

Needless to say, day one of our Khao Yai weekend was a wild, wine-soaked success. We could hardly wait to wake up the next morning and do it all over again the next morning.

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Missed the first post in this series? Check it out here! Meanwhile, stay tuned for my third and final post from my big beloved Thailand wine trip.

What’s the weirdest wine region you’ve ever been to?

Black Friday to Cyber Monday Sale!

Right now is the perfect time to kick off or up your blogging game. Why? Travel Blog Success and Bluehost Hosting are both on sale!

Travel Blog Success - Black Friday Weekend Sale 2016I rarely stop yacking about how Travel Blog Success helped me make Alex in Wanderland what it is today — a financially successful and creatively fulfilling travel blog that just celebrated its fifth anniversary. It’s the first thing I recommend to those who write to me for blogging advice! Our secret member’s Facebook group gives me daily inspiration, feedback, and hearty laughs. Yes, the warmest community in travel blogging is on sale now! And now’s definitely the time to buy, as this is the biggest discount of the year by far.

Bonus: Recently, Travel Blog Success launched an exciting new videography course, one of several new specialty courses also on sale. So if you’re already a member, now is the time to invest in continuing education. Purchase two or more products and get an additional 10% off your purchase!

Click here to receive 50% off all TBS memberships — no code needed! Sale ends Monday at 11:59 PM EST. Please note that I’m a proud affiliate of the program and thus will earn a percentage of your purchase at no extra cost to you. See you in the forums!

Double Bonus: This week, Bluehost will be offering their hosting services at promotional prices as low as $2.65/month, exclusively for Alex in Wanderland readers. That’s up to 42% off their regular price!

Click here to receive an exclusive savings on all Bluehost hosting packages. Sale ends Monday. Please note that I’m also a proud affiliate of Bluehost and will earn a percentage of your purchase at no extra cost to you.


And finally, my featured blogger program is going strong and on sale — nab one of the final spots for January and beyond now!

Wine Not? Kicking off A Thailand Wine Weekend at GranMonte Vineyard

Think Thailand and drinking, and it’s likely you’ll conjure toasting to the sunset with one of the country’s internationally famous beer brands, Chang or Singha. Or perhaps dancing on the beach with a brightly colored pail of cheap whiskey and soda with a handful of straws chucked in. Or maybe sipping an overpriced cocktail at a rooftop bar a la The Hangover II. But wine?

Wine not?

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Yes, Thailand grows grapes. I can’t quite recall when I became obsessed with the idea of taking a grand trip around Thailand’s burgeoning wine country, covered as a quirky oddity in the occasional wine or travel publications. But like most trip ideas, once it took hold, I couldn’t quite let it go until I was packing my bag.

It was a tricky trip to plan mostly due to the fact that I had no idea where to start. Even compiling a list of Thailand’s working wineries that accept visitors was tough; figuring out how to get to them, where to stay and when to go was a one way ticket to spreadsheet city. Like other trips I’ve taken that aren’t detailed in guidebooks or elsewhere on the world wide interwebs, I’ll have a comprehensive guide coming up for those who might want to follow in our tipsy footsteps. For now, I’ll just try to convince you you should.

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Granmonte Winery Thailand

While there are actually a handful of wineries scattered throughout various corners of Thailand (again, stay tuned for more info in my upcoming guide), I decided to focus our trip on the Khao Yai region, where four different vineyards add up to the greatest concentration of wineries in the Kingdom.

Khao Yai is about ninety miles and two hours northeast of Bangkok, and is also home to the stunning Khao Yai National Park that I visited a few months prior — in part as a recon trip for this journey. The rural countryside and cooler temperatures are a literal breath of fresh air for anyone traveling from the capital.

Granmonte Winery Khao Yai

Granmonte Winery Khao Yai

It was also quite the contrast coming from our little island home of Koh Tao. For the last few years I have made it a priority to get my friends off the island and on a little annual getaway somewhere, a tradition that has earned me a fictional travel agency called Wanderland Travels. As in, “I can’t wait to see where Wanderland Travels brings us next!,” while I daydream from the next bar stool.

In the past we’ve hunkered down in villas on Koh Samui and on Koh Phangan, and coming up this year I’m planning to round everyone up for a big festival in Pattaya. But this trip? This will be hard to top.

When I plan a Wanderland Travels excursion, there are a few ground rules. The have to be in Thailand, since we all have different visas with different restrictions and it’s too hard to coordinate a mass exodus. They have to be short and sweet, since much of my crew have businesses to run back on the island. And they have to involve booze (okay, that last one is an unspoken rule, but I think we can all agree it’s pretty foundational.)

This trip hit all the marks. After months of coordinating and dreaming and sending each other wine-drinking memes, I thought I was going to faint of excitement when departure day finally arrived.

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

We had quite the wine appreciation team assembled. Nine of us had traveled together from Koh Tao, with vino-lover Heather flying in from Bali to meet us, and over-pourer Ian’s parents joining us all the way from Canada.

My first instinct was to put us all on a night boat, hop an early flight on the mainland and get picked up by a driver at the airport and be at the wineries before lunch. However, once someone suggested tacking on a wild night on Khao San Road, it would have been rude not to. And so we we left Koh Tao on a cheap ferry and bus combo, took up every bed in a ten person hostel dorm at the chic and highly recommended Nitan Hostel (we booked through Airbnb so we could use my $35 discount code) and spent Friday night in true Khao San fashion — drinking whiskey, singing along to Thai pop songs in an underground nightclub, and engaging in some street side-retail therapy.

The next morning, the driver I’d arranged arrived to whisk us off to wine country.

Granmonte Winery Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Our first stop was GranMonte, a pioneer in the Thai wine industry. The Granmonte vineyard, once a cornfield and cashew plantation, was bought by the Lohitnavy family in 1999 with the hopes of producing wine.

It is a true family operation. Visooth Lohitnavy, founder of the Thai Wine Association and CEO of GranMonte, has passed the torch to his daughter Nikki Lohitnavy, the in-house oenologist — and the first and only female Thai winemaker. I was incredibly excited to visit a winery helmed by a woman, and was touched when she took time out of her busy harvest season to greet us during our visit.

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

We kicked things off with a group tour in an open-air tram of the vineyard’s 40 or so acres, primarily filled by Chenin Blanc and Syryah grapes but also Viognier, Cabinet Sauvingon, Muscat, Semilion, Durif and Granache.

Our sweet young guide was lovely, and valiantly did her best to give a bilingual tour for both our group and some Thai families that were onboard. However, as one point, she became exasperated trying to explain why their sparkling wine product could not be called champagne, and after stammering a bit finally trailed off with a shrug and sighed, “…because France.”

Everyone, including the guide, erupted in giddy laughter and “because France” has become one of our signature sayings ever since.

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Granmonte Winery Thailand

Next up? A spin though the Asoke Valley Winery facilities, which opened in 2009 and produce over 120,000 bottles of wine per year. Here we learned about Nikki’s studies in Australia, admired the fancyequipment imported from Europe, and got to take a peek at the production of wine produced against all odds in the tropics.

And we got a little silly.

Granmonte Winery Thailand

Granmonte Winery Khao Yai

Granmonte Winery Khao Yai

Finally, we made our way to the tasting room to get our hands on the award-winning wines we’d been hearing so much about. Our favorite award, one of many proudly on display around the room? “Best Pairing with Kung Pao Chicken.” I think we all can agree it would be an honor.

After a short video, we got down to sipping. My favorites were the Sakuna Syrah Rosé, the Spring Chenin Blanc and the Busaba dessert wine.

Granmonte Winery Khao Yai

Granmonte Winery Thailand

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

After the tasting, it was time to break at Vincotto Restaurant for lunch in the lush Thai countryside. Vincotto once again keeps things in the family, run by Nikki’s mom and Visooth’s wife, Sakuna.

I’d agonized over the menus and ambiance of this restaurant and the one at the next vineyard we’d be visiting, but after our meal, I couldn’t have been more thrilled with our choice. Because we were a group, Vincotto had several menus we were able to choose from. We settled on a three course set menu, mixing and matching with our favorite wines from the tasting.

Vincotto Restuarant Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

I chose pumpkin and mustard seed soup for my starter, braised lamb in red wine for my entreé, and grape  pie for dessert — and not to brag, but I think I won the meal.

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Granmonte Winery Thailand

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Once we were good and tipsy on lunch wine, it was tie to unleash ourselves in the onsite gift shop. Here we purchased not just wine (I got two bottles) but also high-end grape juice and handmade  fruit jams, salad dressings, and pasta sauces. It was an expat’s dream come true!

Vincotto Restuarant Khao Yai

Vincotto Restuarant Khao Yai

Want to visit GranMonte yourself? Good choice! Granmonte’s vineyard and winery tour has received the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s award for Agrotourism three years in a row — we could see why. While we didn’t absorb tons of technical information due to the language barrier, the tour was efficiently organized, the vineyards and winery were immaculate, and the tasting was well-run. It was the perfect introductory stop of our weekend.

The tour is approximately one and a half hours and costs 300 baht per adult, 220 baht per person under twenty (with grape juice instead of a wine tasting), and free for children under five. During high season, tours are offered every day, but throughout the rest of the year they are offered only on weekends — check the website for details.

GranMonte holds various festivals and events throughout the year, so it might be worth scheduling a visit around one and hunkering down at the onsite guesthouse. For more information on visiting the wineries of Khao Yai, including where to stay, how to hire a driver and more, stay tuned for my upcoming guide to the region.

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

Thailand Wine Trip Khao Yai

GranMonte Winery Thailand

As for us? We had places to go, people to see, and wine to guzzle. Stay tuned for our next stop on the wine squad tour!

After all… wine not? Did you know Thailand had a wine industry?

Celebrating Yi Peng and Loy Kratong on Koh Tao

This week, Koh Tao celebrated Loy Kratong. And while I may currently be on the other side of the world, I touch back down in Thailand in just two weeks — which makes this the perfect time to share this memory from last year!

It’s likely that, whether or not you knew what it was or where it was from, you’ve seen a photo of Thailand’s infamous annual lantern releases. (You’d only have to casually browse the travel section of a book store, where images from Yi Peng have graced the cover of not one but two editions of Lonely Planet Thailand!)

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Perhaps you’ve even heard the terms Yi Peng or Loy Kratong. Technically, Loy Kratong and Yi Peng are two separate holidays, though they typically are celebrated over similar dates and are thus are often used interchangeably by Western visitors. While the dates change annually based on the lunar calendar, they often fall in November. Yi Peng is primarily celebrated in the former Lanna Kingdom of Northern Thailand, while Loy Kratong is celebrated throughout the country.

I’ve been lucky to spend two Loy Kratongs on Koh Tao, and one Yi Peng in Chiang Mai, and they are among my favorite days of the year in Thailand. Yet to be honest I was always a little confused about the differences between the two holidays — here’s hoping this post can clear that up for one of my fellow clueless farang!

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Both festivals trace their roots back to Brahmanic festivals in India, but were later adopted by Buddhists to honor both Prince Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha, and in the case of Loy Kratong, Phra Mae Khongkha, the Hindu water goddess. Yi Peng is closely related to the Indian festival of Diwali, originally celebrated as a ceremony of gratitude to the River Ganges.

Chiang Mai (home of the famous Mae Joe release, which to my understanding is no longer happening), Sukhothai (where the festival allegedly originated) and Bangkok (always a party!) are all popular places for celebrating Loy Kratong. Koh Tao? Not so much. Consider this a guide if you happen to find yourself there.

On Koh Tao, the day kicks off with a parade that starts at the government buildings in Mae Haad and works North towards Sairee. I must admit I have only caught this casual parade in passing, but will make it a point to get a closer look next time I’m celebrating on the island.

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

That evening, things really kick off. At the Seatran pier area in Mae Haad, a large stage holds traditional dances, a beauty contest, and other festivities, and last year I went down to enjoy them with a big group of friends. One highlight of our night was when Ian spotted his elderly landlord killing it in a dance routine onstage. Another was when I spotted the oversize float I’d spotted being proudly constructed at my favorite roadside food stand earlier in the week. Koh Tao is a beautiful little community when it comes together.

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong is certainly a more casual and community-based affair on Koh Tao than the religiously rooted Yi peng I witnessed in Chiang Mai. While we dressed extremely conservatively for the Chiang Mai version, in Koh Tao there was a wide-range of acceptability — I did choose to wear long pants though. And while alcohol was forbidden at the event I attended in Chiang Mai, the vibe in Koh Tao was much more merry-making and drinking was welcomed and encouraged by locals.

And come hungry! There’s an abundance of yummy Thai street food on offer, far beyond what you’d find on a typical night on the island.

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

At the beach steps away from the pier to the north, Koh Tao’s own little lantern release takes place.

The symbolism behind the release of either type of lantern is beautiful. In addition to paying respect to Buddha, these acts allow time to reflect and symbolically release personal demons, hardships, and negativity.

The term loi means “to float” while “kratong” means a lotus shaped vessel. Alongside the flowers, candles, coins and incense sticks, many Thais will cut their fingernails and hair to put in their kratongs as a symbol of letting go, and will also consider it extremely bad luck for the lantern to float back to them. Sky lanterns, or khom loi, are considered especially lucky if they disappear from view before the fire goes out.

Both are acts of spiritual cleansing and new beginnings. They are also, on a superficial level, stunningly beautiful.

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

The dates of Yi Peng and Loy Kratong can be tricky to nail down (in Koh Tao, they are always celebrated concurrently on the official date of Loy Kratong, where in larger cities they may be held separately but within a week or so of each other, and large official lantern releases may be held on the weekend closest to the official date.)

I’ve always found the specific date by keeping an eye on local expat groups in Koh Tao and Chiang Mai, but often these groups are closed to tourists. Ask at your local guesthouse or dive shop, or check the website Thaizer, which is a great resource on Thai holidays and events.

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

I’m anticipate I will receive some questions on the sustainability event. What goes up must come down and that means that the sky lanterns eventually return to earth and the kratongs eventually sink into to the ocean. My advice is to look for khom loi made of biodegradable rice paper and bamboo and kratongs that are made of natural materials like bread and plants as opposed to plastic or styrofoam. Better yet, make a kratong yourself so you can be confident that every component is eco-friendly! Also consider sharing one kratong and one khom loi among multiple people.

There are some people that won’t be satisfied with even those efforts, and they are entitled to that opinion. But I draw on the response I give to cries of waste at Burning Man: sustainability has to be sustainable, and I don’t believe its feasible to ask a country to give up their natural human instinct to gather, to honor tradition and to their celebrate culture. If you are bothered by the waste produced at Yi Peng or Loy Kratong, I invite you to join one of the island’s regular underwater clean up dives or beach walks for trash, or to volunteer at one of the island’s eco-focused charities.

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

Loy Kratong Yi Peng Koh Tao

No, Koh Tao will never be on a list of the most popular destination to celebrate Yi Peng or Loy Kratong. But if you want to get away from the crowds and see a small and joyful celebration alongside locals, expatriates and tourists from around Thailand and the world, Koh Tao would be happy to have you.

While I’ve done extensive research and spend significant time in Thailand, I will always be but a guest in the country, and thus an imperfect messenger of its traditions and religion. Any mistakes in interpretation are my own and I’d welcome corrections of any inaccuracies!

Howl’oween Is For The Dogs

When I decided to spend Halloween in Los Angeles over New York, I had one major motivation. Yes, memories of cold, rainy nights in a damp costume certainly dissuaded me from my East Coast option. But Los Angeles? Los Angeles had Tucker. Game over.

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Tucker has always been pretty down for dress up time — or perhaps he’s just learned to humor us after a lifetime of it. Easter? We’ve got a pair of bunny ears on him. Graduation? He needs a cap and gown too! Prom? Don’t worry, I got rush shipping on the cocker spaniel tuxedo I ordered.

So it always really burned at me that we rarely got to spent Halloween together anymore. When I was living in Brooklyn I used to go to the Tompkins Square Park Dog Parade, but I’d always leave wistful that I didn’t have my own little man with me. (Wondering where I find all these events? Bring Fido is my go-to — and no, they are sadly not a sponsor of Alex in Wanderland, at least not anywhere other than my dreams.)

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Hence, I was more than willing to plan my Los Angeles weekend around attending the Haute Dog Howl’oween Parade in Long Beach. Tucker was pumped.

We went for a sea creature costume theme, inspired by an old lobster costume Tucker had lying around and a pair of gold mermaid legging I’d recently purchased. I spruced up Tucker’s look by dying the lobster suit a more sophisticated color and adding some painted shell eyes, while a trip to the local craft store whipped me into a frenzy of spray paint, shells, hot glue and inspiration for our human ensembles.

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Honestly, I thought we were looking pretty cute, but little did I know we were amateur hour compared to the creative canines that were about to strut their stuff. My friends Lindsay and Asher had joined my dad and I for this fabulous furry day, and so we’d all decided that rather than walk in the parade, we’d instead snag front row seats and enjoy being spectators. Seats are $10 in advance or $5 on the day of, if there are any left. Dog registration runs $10 per dog in advance, $20 on the day, and $35 for Very Important Pooch registration. Best of all? It’s all a fundraiser for a local animal non-profit!

We settled in and got ready to be wowed.

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

And dang, were we ever. I can’t believe the creativity and energy that went into some of these costumes! It made me so heartwarmed and happy to think of families and friends and fluff-balls all hanging out, dreaming up and bringing to life these lovely creations.

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

The Frenchie Fries, above, was one of my favorites of the day! I absolutely adored watching Tucker watch the parade — he was so alert and attentive, carefully watching each and every group go by. Nine out of ten he’d just track with his eyes, but then every so often he’d burst up out of his seat to go wag at and sniff a dog walking by in the parade. It was so sweet!

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Isn’t it amazing what a fabulous job these women in the purple did dressing their dog up as a chicken? It’s uncanny! (In case you’re reading this on a phone or other tiny device, I’ll just go ahead and explain the joke: it’s not a dog. It’s an actual chicken. That is, for better or for worse, all the information I have.)

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

It was fun to watch some of the themes emerge. We saw many costumes based on Star Wars, several inspired by the show Stranger Things, and quite a few riffing on the (then) upcoming election. Angelenos are a creative bunch!

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

I have to give kudos to the organizers of the event, it was awesome to really be able to get a good view of the costumes and the adorable pups! The parade route was long and winding and lined with a row on each side of official seating, and onlookers were welcome to bring their own chairs to set up behind those, or just to stand and watch. There was quite a crowd, and it didn’t look like anyone was straining to see.

With over 400 dressed up dogs, they claim to be the largest Halloween pet event in the world!

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

I couldn’t help but whoop for the above costume, inspired by the Dia de los Muertos celebration I’d attended the night before! They would have fit right in.

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Pupperoni pizza? Sign me up for a slice!

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

And even more Dia de los Muertos fun — you definitely feel the Latin American influence in Los Angeles.

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

And how cute is this mother daughter pair? My heart melted!

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

However, there’s only one group that can take home the ultimate grand prize, which in this case was a year’s supply of dog food. And from the moment we lay eyes on them, we knew who it would be.

Behold, The Boston (Terrier) Tea Party. I salute these fabulous patriots for creating a masterpiece.

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

However, I think if the Baackes family ran the voting committee there’s no question who would have won. In our hearts, the Cutest Dog Around Competition will always be no contest.

After the parade, we spent an hour or so wandering around the various vendors (pet photographers, pet psychics and organic vegan dog treat makers were all present) and contemplating adopting a rescue puppy, and eventually capped off the day with cheap tacos nearby. While we’d sadly missed the big pumpkin drop due to our late arrival, we definitely feel we made the most of the day otherwise.

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

And I have to admit, the day started as a total disaster. We were late. We brought the wrong dog collar. The masks I made started to fall apart. My phone was dying. I was running late (as usual) and underestimated how much time I needed to get ready (as usual) and ended up running out the door in a complete frenzy with my hair half crimped, planning to finish it in the car, a plan that was crushed when the mobile outlet wouldn’t turn on.

Thankfully my dad has survived raising four daughters so it’s probably not the first time he’s been stuck in the car with one of us having a mental breakdown over having a half-crimped, half-straight head of hair, having packed incorrectly, and beating ourselves up over why we can’t be on time to anything in our dang lives even things that are important to us and we weren’t even doing anything significant anyway before we left! Ah, family.

But all is well that ends well, right?

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles

The next day was actual Halloween, and the day of the big West Hollywood parade that had inspired me to be in Los Angeles in the first place. All day, I planned to go. But I’d been feeling extremely overwhelmed and frazzled by work, and just having one of those weeks where I felt I was half-assing everything. And so rather than half-ass one more event, I made a last minute call to stay home and have one low-key last night at home with my dad and Tucker before flying back to New York.

We put Tucker in his back-up hot dog costume to bark at Trick or Treaters, and agreed that we’d really had all the Halloween fun we’d needed to over the weekend, anyway.

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

Howl'oween Dog Parade Long Beach Los Angeles 2016

In short, I think Los Angeles may be my new Halloween home base from here forward! Between Dia de Los Muertos, Howl’oween, and the promise of someday — in a less frazzled state — attending the West Hollywood Parade, I don’t think I could imagine anywhere better to be. My dad and I have already started brainstorming ideas for our next set of costumes.

Any ideas? Leave them in the comments!

Aside from Tucker (duh!), who would you give the Howl’oween grand prize to?

Day of the Dead in the City of Angels

Jumping ahead to bring you some close-to-real-time coverage of my favorite holidays, since apparently some people don’t like reading about Christmas in July.

When I was messing around with my fall calendar, trying to figure out when to be where, one date stuck out to me as important: October 31st. As one of my favorite annual explosions of creativity, I wanted to spend Halloween somewhere special. I settled on Los Angeles.

Once the tickets were booked, I started researching for the best ways to celebrate. The famous West Hollywood Halloween party would fall on the actual holiday of Monday, October 31st, which left the weekend wide-open for alternative ideas. As I’m sure you can imagine, in a city like Los Angeles, I had plenty of options!

When I stumbled across the LA Dia De Los Muertos celebration at Hollywood Forever Cemetery, just a ten minute drive from my dad’s place in Koreatown, I knew I couldn’t miss it.

Dia de Los Muertos Los Angeles

And yet I actually almost did miss it. My first few days back in Los Angeles were spent more or less in hibernation and to-do list mode: sleeping off my Hawaii jetlag, procuring my Thai visa, crafting costumes, and catching up on work. So by the time Friday night rolled around, I was pretty ready to let loose and enjoy the weekend I’d rechristened “El Fin De Semana de Los Muertos.”

And let loose I did at the cocktail tasting at The Walker Inn, where my badass friend Amy is one of the bartenders. The two hour tasting menu changes every two months or so, and the current theme is “childhood science experiments,” hence our stylish lab goggles. I went with my friend Amanda, a fellow blogger who I met in Bangkok last year at TBEX and immediately clicked with. She went from one City of Angels to another, and I couldn’t be happier to have another friend in my West Coast HQ. We were seated with two other cute girls who we loved chatting with and getting to know. It was perfect.

I went into The Walker Inn literally knowing nothing other than the fact that my friend Amy works there and was surprised and was so delighted by the whole experience — and I don’t want to ruin the surprises so you can feel the same way. If you are heading anywhere in Los Angeles anytime soon, just trust me. Make this a top priority. Reservations are tough to get so snap one up early — it’s one of the coolest things I’ve done in the city!

The Walker Inn Los Angeles

However, I paid for it dearly. I woke up on Saturday with one of the worst hangovers I’ve had all year, which I attribute to the wine I consumed when Amanda and I stuck around until well after closing. I had planned to hit up Hollywood Forever around mid-afternoon, but when finally peeled myself out of bed I was thinking more like maybe 2017 would be a more realistic goal.

I tried to find strength in donuts.

California Donuts Los Angeles

California Donuts Los Angeles

I’ve been wanting to check out California Donuts for a few different trips now, and Halloween weekend was the perfect excuse to finally indulge in their fancifully decorated creations. This retro bakery is walking distance from my dad’s place — though like true Angelenos we drove — and we were not disappointed by the festive results.

California Donuts Los Angeles

California Donuts Los Angeles

California Donuts Los Angeles

Around 3pm — you know, the time I’d planned to actually arrive at Hollywood Forever Cemetary — Amanda and I exchanged guilty texts and decided to rally.

She headed over and we quickly abandoned all hope of digging deep into our artistic souls and creating beautiful face paint masterpieces and instead pretty much copied my previous Dia Del Los Muertos look with a half-hearted change in color scheme. Our barely-clinging-to-life moods at least matched the theme of the night!

Dia De Los Muertos Los Angeles

The sun set right as we were finishing the last touches of our face paint, dashing my hopes of arriving in time to get daylight photographs. But alas, my disappointment was quickly replaced with excitement as we approached the cemetery and were suddenly surrounded by face-painted revelers as we inched towards the entrance in traffic.

As we made our way through the gates, I felt I’d left Los Angeles entirely.

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead in English, is not Halloween — it just happens to be around the same time, and also involve dressing up. The holiday originated in Mexico, though it is now celebrated throughout Latin America — and beyond. Los Angeles, with its large Latin American population, was the perfect place to get a primer. As I’d learn throughout the night and the through the reading I was inspired to do later, Dia de los Muertos is a rich, beautiful tradition that celebrates the lives of those who have passed — but who return to the community for one special night per year for a post-mortem party with their loved ones. Personally, coming from a culture that fears and dreads death, I found the concept of embracing and accepting it as part of the natural cycle of life to be refreshing and beautiful.

We spent our first few hours at Hollywood Forever wandering the gorgeously manicured grounds, soaking in the ninety or so detailed altars. While some were created in honor of the creator’s friends or family members, others were tributes to groups that have made tragic headlines — victims of police brutality, animals that have died in cosmetics testing labs, the victims of the Orlando nightclub shooting, undocumented workers who have died without access to health care, and the victims of the San Bernadino shootings were just a few that moved me to tears.

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

As we were staring reverently at one altar in particular, I felt a tap on my shoulder and someone asking me if I spoke Spanish. “Un poquito,” I replied apologetically, thinking I was about to be asked for directions.

“Bien,” was the reply, as the lights of a news camera suddenly blinded me and a beautiful woman shoved a microphone in my face and asked me about my night and my understanding of Dia de los Muertos. I did my best, and then later laughed imagining myself as the punchline on a Late Show-esque compilation of silly gringos struggling with Spanish.

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

I remarked to Amanda many times that I couldn’t stop thinking of Burning Man. The alters reminded me of the heart-wrenching and beautiful notes left behind in The Temple, while the elaborate costumes left me reminiscing about the wild acts of self-expression on The Playa.

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Eventually we found a spot in the grass to relax and take in some of the performances and music taking place on the half a dozen stages dotted throughout the event. We gorged ourselves on taquitos, churros, agua fresca, horchata, and as many other delicious  Mexican treats as we could get our hands on. Meanwhile, festival vendors and talented face painters tended to the masses.

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia de los Muertos was, truly, a celebration of so many things I cherish in life. And — due to our delicate states — there was so much more we didn’t even experience! The doors are open from noon to midnight with a procession starting at 2pm and music on the stages firing up around 3pm. Next time, I vow to get there around 1:30 to take it all in. While the atmosphere at night was magical I think we missed out by not getting to admire the altars in the daytime, as well. And we simply didn’t have the energy to wait in line to see the Cathedral Art Exhibit inside the Cathedral Mausoleum, a wait I’m sure would have been much shorter had we arrived earlier. Moral of the story? You’re going to pay $20 to get in, you might as well make the most of your money and arrive as early as you can.

Other tips? Buy your tickets online ahead of time to skip at least one line. Come hungry and bring small bills for snacks — some booths accept credit cards but lines are long and you’ll speed things up by paying with exact change in cash. Take an Uber or Lyft rather than attempting to park. Definitely get in the spirit by dressing up — almost no one was not in costume, although levels of wow-dom obviously varied. Get your face painted onsite if need be. Prices ranged from $25-40. And once you’re looking fresh, get in line for the free photobooth!

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

While I was disappointed by our late start at my half-hearted costuming, I’m so glad we went. The night really summed up everything that has slowly won me over to Los Angeles — diversity in culture, an atmosphere of creativity, and a flair for the unique. I learned so much about this special holiday and fell in love with this event which I hope to attend over and over again.

And it was just the beginning of the weekend’s festivities. Need more? Stay tuned for tomorrow’s post on Dia de los Doggies.

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Dia De Los Muertos Hollywood Forever Los Angeles

Happy Dia de los Muertos, amigos!